TacoProject

taco documentation

Tex-Mex

Hard Shells Are Fine, Actually

Look. We know. The folded, pre-fried hard shell is not how tacos are traditionally served in most of Mexico. Fried tacos exist there, of course (tacos dorados are wonderful), but the U-shaped shell from a box is a very American thing.

And yet. Ground beef, shredded iceberg, a snowfall of cheddar, a spoonful of mild salsa, and that crunch. It is a taste of childhood Tuesdays. It is fine. It is, in fact, pretty great.

It shatters on the first bite? So does every good croissant. Stop apologizing for enjoying things.

Final answer: eat the hard shell. Then go get real tacos al pastor tomorrow. You can have both. Nobody is keeping score. (We are keeping score.)

Corn vs. Flour: A Definitive Ruling

Every taco household eventually faces the question. Corn or flour? We have heard the testimony. We have examined the evidence. We have, frankly, eaten too much of the evidence. The court is ready to rule.

Corn tortillas cooking on a comal
Photo: Artemisa Martínez / Wikimedia Commons (CC0)

The case for corn

Corn tortillas are the original. Nixtamalization, cooking dried corn in an alkaline solution of calcium hydroxide (cal), has been practiced in Mesoamerica for thousands of years. It unlocks niacin, improves the dough, and gives masa its unmistakable toasty flavor. Most taquerias in Mexico use corn for most tacos.

The case for flour

Flour tortillas come from northern Mexico, especially Sonora, where wheat grows well. A good Sonoran flour tortilla is thin, stretchy, and nearly translucent. In Texas, flour is the undisputed king of the breakfast taco.

CornFlour
FlavorToasty, earthy, sweetButtery, mild, rich
TextureTender, can crack when coldSoft, stretchy, forgiving
Best withAl pastor, carnitas, fish, barbacoaBreakfast tacos, carne asada, Sonoran-style
WeaknessFalls apart if not heated rightCan taste like cardboard from the supermarket
TraditionThousands of years in MesoamericaNorthern Mexico, post-Spanish wheat

The tortilla should serve the filling. The filling should never have to apologize for the tortilla.

The Honorable Court of Tacos

The ruling

Corn wins for most tacos. Flour wins for breakfast and anything from Sonora. Anyone serving a cold, un-griddled supermarket tortilla of either kind is held in contempt. Case closed. Court adjourned. Someone go get more salsa.