We rented a small hatchback, packed a cooler full of limes and set out to eat our way along the Pacific coast: two days in Baja California, two days in Southern California, and far too many tortillas. Each page of this story covers one city.
Day 1: Tijuana

Tijuana is where we learned to say adobada instead of al pastor. The pork is marinated in a deep red chile paste, stacked on a trompo and shaved straight onto a small corn tortilla with a smear of guacamole sauce.
Our first stop was a busy corner stand where the taquero worked three trompos at once. We ate standing up, then walked two blocks and did it again at another stand. That became the rhythm of the day.
- Best bite: adobada with guacamole taquero and grilled onion
- Runner-up: carne asada on a flour tortilla, Sonora-style
- Tip: carry small bills in pesos